In the 19th century, tasting notes were descriptive, but less specifically comparative. In fact, that primarily food- and flora-based lexicon is only around 50 years old. We haven’t always described beer-or wine, or coffee, or other consumable products-as tasting like white bread, clove, tangerine, or rose. It’s easy to forget that the kinds of comparative tasting notes we use today haven’t been around long. With craft beer still in its relative infancy in many countries, the potential is enormous-and that could change the very way that we evaluate beer. Whichever path we choose, rethinking the tasting language and standards that have defined the first several decades of the craft beer industry’s existence will be necessary to reach the drinkers and producers who may well shape its future. Or we could totally reconceptualize the way that we talk about flavor. We could make regionally specific tools, combining global terms and local ones. We could make those flavor maps sprawl to hundreds of words to be as all-encompassing as possible. Visions of what that could look like vary. Now, as more small breweries open in places which previously didn’t have a craft beer culture, and as more drinkers from more diverse backgrounds come to beer, there’s a new movement to broaden the terms we use, to be more inclusive in our flavor language, and to decolonize our tasting tools. But as Merlo’s example makes plain, that supposedly universal application really reflects a narrower band of experience than many care to admit, one that certainly doesn’t speak to all beer drinkers around the globe. As widely used tools, they are designed to refine an industry lexicon, to help with communication, and to provide a universal reference point for the language of flavor. Most beer flavor wheels or flavor maps today are composed of a set number of these “common” ingredients or descriptors. and the U.K., or at least readily available via major supermarkets. Since the 1970s, international beer’s educational tools, courses, style guides, and tasting notes have been defined by a broadly Western palate, one biased towards the kinds of ingredients that are grown in places like the U.S. From Barons to Barrels with Captain Pabst.Message in a Bottle with Brewery Ommegang.Beer is Labor with East Brother Beer Co.Let Go or Get Dragged by Jerard Fagerberg.Ferments at Low Temps by Stephanie Byce.

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